In article <bearclaw-3C24F1.23273924112006@news.supernews.com>, <bearclaw@cruller.invalid> wrote: [ ... ] >I cannot *prove* that my nice clean battery terminals were the >resolution of that stupid, rotten, stinking, hateful cursed light, but I >thought that there might be others in a similar fix (especially Kia >owners far and wide... we all know that freakin' light is a common >worrisome headache for the brand). I'm in agreement with the something-got-reset analysis. Engine control systems build up a "profile" over time that tweaks how the engine is run, based upon sensor readings. Clearing those and letting the computer build a new profile occasionally (say, spring and fall--when gasoline formulations change) won't hurt. >If the light is on, check the battery. What can it hurt? Nothing at all, as long as you don't have equipment which stores an activation code in volatile memory (late '90s Mazdas are like this); when you reconnect the battery, you have to re-enter the code for it to work again. It's an anti-theft measure that's suprised a number of used car buyers... Gary -- Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/ Astronomers have developed a definition of "planet" which excludes Pluto. I'm developing a definition of "scientist" which excludes astronomers.

WOW..the blind leading the blind! Amazing really....... It's VERY simple. Get a code reader or find out how to read the blinking lamp and look up the *ERROR CODE*. The system holds that code so you KNOW what it's bitching about. Also..that "Slime" on the top of the battery, while it's not a good thing WILL NOT "short" a battery out or will it cause the "Check Engine" light to come on.......thats just stupid. Mechanics......you are not.

In article <bearclaw-3C24F1.23273924112006@news.supernews.com>, bearclaw@cruller.invalid wrote: > For well over a year, that damned light has been intermittently shining > forth from my dashboard array. Sometimes it goes off when I turn on the > A/C. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it stays on for a few hours, > sometimes for weeks. Then it mysteriously goes out. > <snip> > So I do. The baking soda solution gets the cable ends and the terminals > clean of corrosion. The wire brush makes electrical connections shiny. It is quite possible that the removal of power has reset the computer control unit and eliminated the problem. I assume that to clean and wire brush the terminals, you disconnected the cables from the battery? If so, that also removed power from the control unit. Most older vehicle control units will totally reset themselves if power has been removed for a few minutes (newer units with flash memory will retain many settings). -- -Ernie-

In article <bearclaw-150215.13364825112006@news.supernews.com>, <bearclaw@cruller.invalid> wrote: >In article <%w0ah.9890$yE6.6165@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com>, > "Porgy Tirebiter" <biteme@gmail.com> wrote: [ ... ] >> Amazing really....... >> It's VERY simple. Get a code reader or find out how to read the blinking >> lamp and look up the *ERROR CODE*. >Sure. Where can I get my hands on a decoder list for that >make/model/year? What's the jumper configuration for that >make/model/year? I suspect the folks at http://www.kia-forums.com can help you with that. You can get a basic OBD-II reader at Advance Auto parts and similar places--mine cost about $200. >> The system holds that code so you KNOW what it's bitching about. >How much good do you think it will do me when the dealer's reader said >there is nothing wrong with the vehicle? And then the independent >mechanic's reader concurred? [ ... ] That's puzzling. The dealers' reader should find anything (not all codes are publicly available; the aftermarket readers may only give a code with no explanation of what it means). Could be that the computer was clearing the code when it no longer detected a fault. Gary -- Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/ Astronomers have developed a definition of "planet" which excludes Pluto. I'm developing a definition of "scientist" which excludes astronomers.

In article <bearclaw-57B619.19380925112006@news.supernews.com>, bearclaw@cruller.invalid wrote: > In article <ecklein-EF1B47.13305425112006@news.newsguy.com>, > Ernie Klein <ecklein@pacbell.net> wrote: > > > It is quite possible that the removal of power has reset the computer > > control unit and eliminated the problem. > > > > I assume that to clean and wire brush the terminals, you disconnected > > the cables from the battery? > > Yes. The battery terminals are on top, but I took the whole thing out > anyway for at least an hour. Probably more like two hours. Another possibility is that the corrosion caused a low resistance connection to the battery terminal, just enough resistance to allow "noise" on the 12V feed. The output of the alternator is quite "noisy" (i.e. unfiltered) but the battery normally acts like a large capacitor and filters out the noise. If the cables don't make a good connection to the battery there is a possibility that the resulting noise could cause the onboard control computer to do strange things. -- -Ernie-

"krw" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message news:MPG.1fd2ce9df5057cb7989cda@news.individual.net... > > No, it's a federal standard. The basic interface and emissions > stuff must all play the same. The interface block is standardized I thought there was a variety of standards, including OBD-II and CAN?!